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Bandhavgarh National park
 She
growled and clawed in the air and I basked in her beauty. The majesty strength
words cannot describe. Looking back at those moments all that I can remember
is her anger and the clicks of my camera. At that moments my heart and my
head were at logger head with each for it was a dilemma, whether to click
her or just keep admiring. A sight to remember and to capture on film. Welcome
to Bandhavgarh National Park.
Bandhavgarh National Park is no ordinary park, it was here that last white
tiger was saved from extingtion. Though now roar of the such tigers is limited
to zoo across the world.
The park derived its name from a legend during Ramayana and the name Bhandavgarh
meaning "Brother's Fort" said to made for Laxman the younger brother
of Lord Rama. This place now is more famous for something else the "The
Royal Bengal Tiger"
Bandhavgarh National Park lies in the heart of Madhya Pradesh and once the
hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa. BNP in over a period of 10 years
has become the real hot spot of seeing wild tigers in close quarters. This
is probably only place where tiger sighting is much easier than any other
national park. Lot has been written and filmed on the wildlife of Bandhavgarh
National Park. This is a main reasons that tigers hear are more well known
as compared to any other places. Charger the most prolific predator in Bandhavgarh
National Park, Sita who become world famous on featuring on the front page
of National Geographic magzine. Tigeress like Mohini, S1, S2, S3, Chilly
and tigers like B1, B2, B3, and Challenger have made this place for people
to visit and admire this place.
Reaching There
 Bandhavgarh
National Park is fairly well connected by Delhi & Mumbai by railways.
The nearest railway station is Umaria. Umaria is 32 km aways from village
Tala, the entrance to the Bandhavgarh National Park. One can also reach
Katni, a junction from where the park is a two hour drive.
It was a trip that I shall forget and shall leave permanent mark on me.
By sheer coincidence I met Shelender Tiwari, the owner of Tiger's Den resort
where my accommodation was arranged. Soon after boarding the train, the
tiger talks began and we were already in Bandhavgarh National Park. Of innumerable
visits to different National Parks in India there had been very few occasions
where tiger sighting was very few and far. It is not just the tigers that
make Bandhavgarh National Park different it the whole eco-system of which
this mighty predator is at the peak of the food chain that make Bandhavgarh
National Park a unique place.
There various species of birds in BNP and is birder watchers' paradise.
Incidently it was here that I first saw colourful Indian Pittah and Paradise
Flycataher. In fact after 15 km from leaving Umaria, the scenery starts
to change and all signs of urbanization are left behind. Traveling parallel
to the park one can sight birds like, Indian Pitah, Golden Oriale, Spotted
Owl, Dove, Serpent Eagle, Little Egret etc. Spread over an area of 448 sq.
km., Bandhavgarh National Park is situated in Shahdol district among the
outlying hills of the Vindhya range.
The Tiger Talks
In the train apart from the tiger stories I learnt about an interesting
concept called "Tiger Show", which to to my knowledge, exits only
in Bandhavgarh National Park. It is like this, every morning and evening
before tourists enter the park, forest department men scan the jungles on
elephant back to track down the tigers and then radio the location to the
officials at the park's entrance gate.
 So
when tourists come looking for tigers they know exactly where to do. The
closest railhead is the town of Umaria, which is 30 km from Bandhavgarh;
it's linked by train to cities in Madhya Pradesh and other states, including
Delhi. Private and state owned bus services operate regular buses to Bandhavgarh
from Umaria, Jabalpur, and other towns in Madhya Pradesh. Taxis too can
be hired to get to Bandhavgarh. The wildlife park's entrance is at a tiny
settlement called Tala, which has facilities- although limited- for accommodation.
Tiger Show
It took us about an hour to reach the Tiger's Den Resort. On reaching there
I enquired whether we can make it into the jungles and to my delight I was
informed that a "tiger show was going on". I heard myself saying,
"let's go". We quickly jumped onto Shelender's Gypsy and raced
towards the park's entrance.
The main entrance is situated on a slightly open area alongside which a
small river, Charanganga flows. The moment we entered the park the scenery
changed dramatically and the openness gave way to dense forest. From here
the road then leads into a small gauge between two hills.
 On
reaching Amanala, we came across forest guards sitting on one side of the
road, chatting and their elephants peacefully munching leaves. It looked
perfectly normal but I missed a heartbeat when I was informed that there
are tigers just 100 yards from that place, that too four of them, a family
with two fully grown up cubs. Quickly climbing onto an elephants, we started
moving towards the dense foliage of the jungle.
On the edge of a nullah sitting for a perfect pose was S1, my first Bandhavgarh
tigress. The sights and sounds of her, I shall never forget, innumerable
clicks followed and I had already exhausted 2 camera rolls. As we moved
closer Shelender tapped on my shoulder and pointed towards three tigers
sitting in a rivulet some distance away. A rare sight indeed, four tigers
in one place. As we moved closer to S1 her expressions made it clear that
we were not welcome. Her upper lips curled preceding a deep rambling growl,
instantly sending a chill down my spine. I could well imagine the plight
of the animals who share the jungle with the tigers. This was my closet
encounter with a tiger in the wild !
Geography
At the centre of the park is Bandhavgarh hill, rising 811 mt above sea level.
There are a large number of smaller hills separated by gently sloping valleys
surrounding the hill.
 These
valleys end in small, swampy meadows, locally known as 'Bohera'. The lowest
point in the park is at Tala (440 mt above MSL).
The vegetation is chiefly of Sal forest in the valleys and on the lower
slopes, gradually changing to mixed deciduous forest on the hills and in
the hotter, drier areas of the park in the south and west. Bamboo is found
throughout.
The terrain is of great rocky hills rising sharply from the swampy and densely-
forested valley bottoms. The finest of these hills is Bandhavgarh, sided
with great cliffs and eroded rocks, and on its highest point stands Bandhavgarh
fort, thought to be some 2,000 years old. Scattered throughout the park,
and particularly around the fort, are numerous caves containing shrines
and ancient Sanskrit inscriptions.
History
No records remain to show when Bandhavgarh Fort was constructed. It is thought,
however, to be some 2,000 years old, and there are references to it in the
ancient books.
The Flora & Fauna
Rare plants many of thme have medicially value and also flower &
flaura is rare The forest of Bandhavgarh can be classified as moist deciduous,
and the National Park holds all those animal species which are typical of
this habitat in Central India. Certain areas of the park (particularly the
south and the west) are drier in character, and hold such species as the
Nilgai and the Chinkara.
Sal forest occurs throughout the valleys, giving way to mixed forest which
occurs where the soil is of relatively poor quality on the upper hill slopes,
on rocky outcrops and in the South and West. Grassy meadow patches occur
in the valley and along the nallas. The park is now home to 22 species of
wildlife, including the regal 'gaur', umpteen varieties of deer, and carnivores
such as the striped hyena, jungle cat and sloth bear and over 250 species
of birds. Within the park itself is the Bandhavgarh Fort, now in ruins and
largely overrun by the surrounding forest.
In 1947, Rewa State was merged with Madhya Pradesh; Bandhavgarh came under
the regulation of Madhya Pradesh. Bandhavgarh National Park lies in the
heart of Madhya Pradesh- traditional tiger country.
 Although
Bandhavgarh is in the area where the famous white tigers of Rewa were first
found and saved them from total extinction. Here there is an amazing diversity
of flora and fauna which can certainly make a trip to this wildlife preserve
utterly worthwhile.
No two tigers have the same pattern of stripes and therefore it is easy
to identify them and even give them name. All tigers in the tourist zone
of the park have names. Starting from tiger by the name of Charger, B1,
B2, B3, Chalenger and tigress by the name Sita,S1, S2, and S3 and Chilly.
The most famous of all the big cats of Bandhavgarh was Charger, whose dread
was spread far and wide.
Wildlife
The artiodactyls frequently sighted are Wild Pigs, Spotted Deer, Sambar,
Chausingha, Nilgai, Chinkara and Gaur. Mammals such as Dhole, the small
Indian Civet, Palm Squirrel and Lesser Bandicoot Rat are seen occasionally.
The vegetation along streams and marshes is rich in bird life. The common
ones are Little Grebe, Egret, lesser Adjutant,Indian Pitah, Paradise Flycatcher,
Sarus Crane, Black Ibis, Lesser Whistling Teal, White-eyed Buzzard, Black
Kite, Crested Serpent Eagle, Black Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Common Peafowl,
Red Jungle Fowl, Dove, Parakeets, Kingfishers and Indian Rollers. Reptilian
Fauna include Cobra, Krait, Viper, Rat-snake, Python, Turtle and a number
of lizard varieties, including Varanus. Within the bounds of the Bandhavgarh
National Park, vehicles may be hired at the entrance to drive around; in
addition, private vehicles are allowed in.
Best time to visit
Like many of India's other wildlife preserves, national parks and sanctuaries,
Bandhavgarh National Park too closes for visitors during the monsoon months,
July to October. Between November and June is the best- and only-time to
visit the park.
Suggestes tour option
Explore Bandhavgarh
7 Nights / 8 Days
Day 01 : Leave for Bandhavgarh National Park, by 2AC train.
Day 02 : Arrive at Umaria/Katni - the railhead for Bandhavgarh National
Park. Check in to the Tiger Den's Resorts & get ready for the evening
game drive. Bandhavgarh has a very good population of wild tigers and there
are very good chances of seeing one.
Days 03 - 04 : Morning and evening game drive in Bandhavgarh National
Park. Spend the day viewing game inside the Jungle, Elephant safaris can
be arranged to view wildlife. Elephants are much better to go to those areas
not possible by Jeep Like Kanha, in Bandhavgarh also deers can be seen along
the grasslands
 Days
05 - 06 : Morning and evening game drive in Bandhavgarh National Park.
Spend the day viewing game inside the Jungle, Elephant safaris can be arranged
to view wildlife. Elephants are much better to go to those areas not possible
by Jeep Like Kanha, in Bandhavgarh also deers can be seen along the grasslands
Day 07 : In morning go for Jeep Safari and return for lunch. Leave
for Delhi by train in the evening.
Day 08 : Reach Delhi by afternoon. Go straight to a good restaurant
for lunch, after lunch drive to International Airport to catch a flight
back to your next destination.
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